Christmas Eve: Conditions Update - SNOW!

John finding Santa has come early to the Indian Peaks

First and foremost, Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone! Today I was lucky enough to get out for an early morning ski tour with John Bicknell. A great way to start the holiday season. The Front Range has been getting hit with cold temps and some new snow over the last 48 hrs. Yesterdays 3-4" was followed up with another 6-8" last night. John and I met early and ran up to the Indian Peaks for a quick morning lap.

With the recent instability and lack of time we opted for a low angle run that offered a nice warm-up skin, fun turns, and minimal risk. Tomorrow it looks like this system will roll out and will be followed by high pressure moving in from the northwest. Bummer this system isn't sticking around longer and providing needed coverage but we're only getting started and there is plenty more to come.

If you're thinking about taking a avy course this season consider one of our Avy Awareness or AIARE Level 1 programs. We run one every weekend throughout the winter season. Check out our course listings on our website: www.totoalclimbing.com

Our guides also run ski tours and ski mountaineering training in the Indian Peaks and Rocky Mountain National Park throughout the winter.

The following report is from the CAIC website. I highly recommend anyone into backcountry recreation checking their site each time before heading out.

"The Front Range received 2-6" of snow in the last 24 hours. Winds have been all over the place so I am going to increase the danger to CONSIDERABLE at and above treeline on the western side of the rose. Most of the west slope will be scoured by afternoon, but places where snow remains will be touchy. Our snowpack is weak, thin, and will not strengthen in the near future. There have been 19 reports of human triggered avalanches in the past week. The slides have occurred on north through northeast to southeast aspects, at elevations above 11,000 feet, from Cameron Pass to Loveland Pass. Some highlights: Sunday, snowmobilers triggered a very large avalanche just north of Jones Pass. It was on a north to northeast aspect above treeline and 3 to 4 feet deep. Saturday search and rescue was called out to search a series of avalanches just west of the road on Berthoud Pass. Fortunately, that was a false alarm. Signs of instability are obvious and rampant. Observers report sizable whumpfs and shooting cracks in most areas holding snow. The weak layers tend to be well developed basal facets, and faceted layers above and/or below stiff crusts. Convex rolls (less steep to steeper transition) continue to be the most likely trigger point. With the new snow being redistributed by wind, it will become easier to trigger avalanches. Pay attention to who is above, and below you...we have had reports of parties dropping into questionable terrain above other parties. The Front Range received 2-6" of snow in the last 24 hours. Winds have been all over the place so I am going to increase the danger to CONSIDERABLE at and above treeline on the western side of the rose. Most of the west slope will be scoured by afternoon, but places where snow remains will be touchy. Our snowpack is weak, thin, and will not strengthen in the near future. There have been 19 reports of human triggered avalanches in the past week. The slides have occurred on north through northeast to southeast aspects, at elevations above 11,000 feet, from Cameron Pass to Loveland Pass. Some highlights: Sunday, snowmobilers triggered a very large avalanche just north of Jones Pass. It was on a north to northeast aspect above treeline and 3 to 4 feet deep. Saturday search and rescue was called out to search a series of avalanches just west of the road on Berthoud Pass. Fortunately, that was a false alarm. Signs of instability are obvious and rampant. Observers report sizable whumpfs and shooting cracks in most areas holding snow. The weak layers tend to be well developed basal facets, and faceted layers above and/or below stiff crusts. Convex rolls (less steep to steeper transition) continue to be the most likely trigger point. With the new snow being redistributed by wind, it will become easier to trigger avalanches. Pay attention to who is above, and below you...we have had reports of parties dropping into questionable terrain above other parties. The Front Range received 2-6" of snow in the last 24 hours. Winds have been all over the place so I am going to increase the danger to CONSIDERABLE at and above treeline on the western side of the rose. Most of the west slope will be scoured by afternoon, but places where snow remains will be touchy. Our snowpack is weak, thin, and will not strengthen in the near future. There have been 19 reports of human triggered avalanches in the past week. The slides have occurred on north through northeast to southeast aspects, at elevations above 11,000 feet, from Cameron Pass to Loveland Pass. Some highlights: Sunday, snowmobilers triggered a very large avalanche just north of Jones Pass. It was on a north to northeast aspect above treeline and 3 to 4 feet deep. Saturday search and rescue was called out to search a series of avalanches just west of the road on Berthoud Pass. Fortunately, that was a false alarm. Signs of instability are obvious and rampant. Observers report sizable whumpfs and shooting cracks in most areas holding snow. The weak layers tend to be well developed basal facets, and faceted layers above and/or below stiff crusts. Convex rolls (less steep to steeper transition) continue to be the most likely trigger point. With the new snow being redistributed by wind, it will become easier to trigger avalanches. Pay attention to who is above, and below you...we have had reports of parties dropping into questionable terrain above other parties. " type="hidden">

Weather Discussion:

The arrival of the northern cold air mass last night resulted in good snowfall along the western foothills of the Front Range, in the Steamboat Zone and along the North Slope of the San Juan. The cold air and northerly flow will remain in place through Friday night, leaving us with periods of clearing followed by scattered mountain snow showers through Christmas day. Mountain winds will pick up Friday afternoon as a low pressure system setting up over Nebraska moves eastward." Self portrait... did I mention it was COLD! Simon Fryer Colorado Mountain School sfryer@totalclimbing.com www.totalclimbing.com

Boulder Rock Club: Membership Raffle Winners!

Doug Cook with his new La Sportiva Solutions and a huge smile!

Congratulations to the following winners of our quarterly raffle:

Alise Arata – Black Diamond harness
Doug Cook – La Sportiva Solutions
Richard Fox – 60m Sterling rope
Tim Plummer – Marmot Tempo Jacket

Come in and purchase either a 4, 6 or 12 month membership between now and April 1st in order to be entered in to the next raffle. Prizes include a Black Diamond harness, a pair of La Sportiva climbing shoes, a Sterling Rope, or a Marmot jacket. The next raffle is happening on April 1st so come in and get your membership to be eligible to win these fabulous prizes! Thank you members for being part of the BRC!

Tim Plummer sporting his new Marmot Tempo jacket - Congrats Tim!

Ecuador 2009

Our team of 3 had a superb expedition to Ecuador in early December. One of the things I’ve learned about international climbing over my 20+ year guiding career is that no matter how well planned your trip is on paper, things can change dramatically when you get in-country. Expeditions frequently require exercising those flexibility muscles! This trip was no exception. In fact we didn’t climb a single peak we were scheduled to climb!

‘On paper’ we were scheduled to acclimate on Ruccu Pinchincha followed by our main events: Cayambe and Illiniza Sur. The gondola that accesses the trailhead for Ruccu turned out to be closed so we rallied, rented a high clearance taxi for the day and climbed Gua Gua Pinchincha instead – a perfect acclimatization day in the misty mountains of Ecuador.

Then our local intel alerted us to deteriorating conditions on Cayambe so with the help of our awesome local logistics team we opted to climb Cotopaxi instead since conditions were reported to be ideal there. The day we went for the summit was one of my two best weather days ever in Ecuador! Glaciated climbing doesn’t get any better!
Our last climb, Illiniza Sur, was in good condition when we arrived at the hut. Unfortunately, the night before our climb when we got super saturated snow fall and a low temperature almost 15 degrees ABOVE freezing. On a route that requires a hard freeze to keep rock fall at bay this made for a no-go decision. No problem: we put our crampon skills to good use on snow covered rock on Illiniza Norte instead – a great finale to our time in the peaks of Ecuador!

My team did an amazing job of adapting to the changing landscape (pun intended!) and embracing the adventure as it came. Kudos to Tom and Flora for creating a successful expedition with their excellent attitudes. Thanks for an incredible trip guys!

-Bob Chase

Conditions Update: Vail Ice

CMS guides, Andrew Councell and Mark Kelly, found some great ice in Vail last weekend. The conditions are continuing to get better and better. Join us for one of our ice programs or a private day out on the ice or in the mountains.
Keep checking back for more condition updates and pics. We'll be posting every week.

MSA Auto Belay Update 12/8/09

On Friday, December 4th, we received notice from MSA regarding the Redpoint Auto Belay Descenders. Unfortunately, MSA is discontinuing their climbing safety product line and will no longer offer or service their auto belay devices (please see full notice from MSA below).

We are actively pursuing other options for the BRC. We recognize the auto belays are an important tool for many of our members and visitors. At this time, it’s hard to say when we will have a replacement but we assure you we are looking into the best options.

In the mean time, we have set up a few great resources for you to find a partner. They are:

1) Partner sign up sheet at the front desk: When you enter the BRC ask the front desk to sign up for a partner. We will do our best to match you up with another member who is also looking for a climbing partner.

2) Partner Board: We’ve added a “Looking for Partners” board in the gym. It’s a great way to find new climbing partners. Check it out next time you’re in the gym

3) Facebook Discussion Board: On the BRC/CMS Facebook page under “Discussion Board” you can post that you’re looking for a partner. Please include when you plan to climb, time, and climbing ability (TR, Lead, etc..). Partner Finder

4) Discounted Rate for a belayer. You can hire a belayer for $20 per hour. Just call the BRC and we’ll get it booked for your next visit to the gym

The BRC staff appreciates your continued business and patience while we resolve this issue. If you have any questions please contact us. We look forward to seeing you at the BRC soon.

MSA Notice:

As you are already aware, MSA issued a Stop-Use Notice on Redpoint and Auto-Belay Descenders on October 14, 2009 and a subsequent Stop-Use Update on November 3, 2009. The Stop-Use Notices were emailed and mailed to all Repoint and affected Auto-Belay purchasers that MSA has on record. After conducting a thorough investigation, MSA is planning to discontinue the Redpoint Descender.

MSA did not make this decision lightly, and we regret any inconvenience this action may cause. As you are aware, there are alternative belay systems available from other manufactures. While we regret having to take this action, the overriding need to ensure the safety of all those using our product on recreational climbing walls is our highest priority. With this action, MSA is effectively exiting the recreational market for climbing wall auto-belay systems. MSA will, however, continue to focus on and serve the industrial fall protection market, as we have done since 1930. In short, MSA is committed to the industrial fall protection market and will continue to serve our customers there with the most dependable industrial fall protection system available today.

We are developing a reimbursement program for eligible Redpoint and Auto-Belay Descenders. Our program plans are currently being reviewed by the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Following the CPSC review, we plan to issue a recall notice to owners and distributors of the affected products, including instructions for the return of units.

It is important that the Stop-Use remain in effect. Please do not use any Redpoint Descender of affected Auto-Belay Descender.

As a reminder, the Stop-Use Notice applies to the following descender units:

• All Redpoint Descenders (part number 10024873, 10027646, and 10027798)
• Auto-Belay Descenders (part number 100211806) manufactured or last serviced on or after June 30, 2000.
  

Very truly yours,

Charles J Seibel, Jr.
Manager of Product Safety
MSA North America

CMS Avalanche Training and Tech Tips by BCA

Backcountry Access (BCA) has just released a three-part video series on avalanche rescue. These are broken down into concise videos on beacon searching, probing, and shoveling technique. These are excellent references and can be found on the BCA education page.

For status updates on BCA's latest products including the Tracker2 and Float 30 Avalanche Airbag, stay tuned to the BCA blog and Facebook page.

For avalanche training courses check out the CMS wesbite.
Courses start December 11th and run until the beginning of April 2010.

A Little Taste of Skiing in RMNP

As winter approaches, we're all dreaming about the ski season ahead (not to mention all the ice and great alpine routes). Everyone has been prepping and setting up for avy, ski, ice, and mountaineering courses. Now we're waiting... for the snow, for the cold, and for the perfect days. Guess what? They're here!

To get you psyched CMS guide, Joey Thompson, sent in this report about his last day of the 08/09 season on an ultra classic ski moutnaineering route in the Longs Peak cirque.
Thanks Joey for the inspiration!

My partner and I had gotten up early that morning 3:00 am to meet up and check our equipment to make sure that it was appropriate for our activity. As we drove up to the Longs Peak trailhead, we discussed our tour plans for the day leaving our options open. We pulled into the Longs parking area turning our headlamps on and finishing our last sip of coffee. We hurried to sign the register and off we went in a slight jog up the trail.

In the morning we found great step kicking up the shaded couloir. The snow was fairly firm. We traveled more towards the shade line to find even better snow for our crampons. Clear skies in the early AM with light NW winds gusting mildly during the day. The temperatures above tree line remained cool.

The snowpack had strong bonding and strengthening in early morning hours. With warming weather there had been an absence of a deep re-freeze. The rapid and intense warming will decrease stability of the looming cornice above. Pin wheeling and wet sluffs were occurring on the interface between new and old snow layers. As rock faces heated, numerous ice and rock fall could be heard around the Longs Peak cirque.

10:10am, We skied Flying Dutchman Couloir (50 degrees + at its steepest) near an elevation of 13,310 feet, we had soft skiing conditions with really fun corn skiing at the top.

Melt water was running under the 40 foot 70 degree ice section on the Flying D. We set up our rappel leaving slings and rings for our technical descent.

After our rappel over the ice fall, we skied to a breakable chalky crust, mixed with warm surface melt to the bottom of the Flying Dutchman couloir. We had to traverse above Chasm Lake because of the lakes creeping cracks that were starting on the flanks of the lake.

Cloud cover rolled in as we returned to the car at 1:53pm.

This wound up being my last ski day of the 2008-2009 ski season. I am now anxiously awaiting for the good snow to return…

Joey Thompson
Colorado Mountain School
jthompson@totalclimbing.com

Ice Climbing: Rocky Mountain National Park Update

Over the Thanksgiving weekend CMS guides, Andrew Councell and Mark Kelly, climbed some fun ice routes in Rocky Mountain National Park. Things are starting to form up and with more sunshine, cold evening temps, and potential moisture for next week it's only going to get better. Andrew and Mark have been running around the Park checking out all the early season ice (see earlier post about West Gully and Northeast Face of Notchtop). Please stay in touch and let us know if you have any questions about conditions and hiring a guide for some great days in the RMNP.

The areas Andrew and Mark checked out were around the Loch and Jewel Lake. Both are starting to offer a good variety of ice but remember it's still early season.

The Loch offers some great classic ice pitches:
1) The Crypt: WI4, 2) Freezer Burn WI4, and 3) Cold Storage WI4

Mark and Andrew also checked out the ice around Jewel Lake over the weekend and found some fun slabs and iced up mixed terrain.

Thanks to Mark and Andrew for the great pics, info and inspiration. Cheers!

Colorado Mountain School
info@totalclimbing.com
800.836.4008

November Pow!

Sunday I headed out to one of my favorite stashes with my wife and a couple of good friends. The forecast was for a foot or more of snow overnight and then gradually clearing during the day. Early season storms can be deceiving, especially when there isn't much of a base, so we were cautiously optimistic as we loaded up the 4Runner and hit the road. But we had a good feeling about this one, and as the saying goes, “you don't know if you don't go.”

Skinning up the trail towards alpine zone, we knew we had made the right call and were in for a treat. The storm came in warm and with uncharacteristically little wind. At treeline, we found a foot or more of fresh snow with no wind affect that was bonding well to the old snow below. In other words, perfect riding conditions.

Discussing our snow, avalanche, and weather observations, we felt very confident about the snow stability and decided to head up to one of the alpine bowls for a longer run.

Our smiles widened as we pushed to the Continental Divide. The avalanche hazard remained minimal and the snow was classic Colorado powder! A few storm clouds still lingered, dropping the occasional flakes, and teasing us with brief glimpses of the terrain above. As we topped out, the clouds lifted and the sun shown through, illuminating our skin track and highlighting our line of descent. We quickly ripped skins, agreed on our descent plan, and headed down to take advantage of the good visibility.

It's days like these the remind me why I love being in the mountains and sliding on snow.

See you in the backcountry.

Matt Lipscomb
CMS Guide
AIARE Level 1 and 2 Instructor

Want to improve your knowledge of avalanche hazard and confidence in decision making in the mountains? Join CMS for a L1 Avalanche Course or a day of guided backcountry skiing this winter.

Ice Climbing: Lincoln Falls

My friend and I wear really psyched for ice climbing after all of the recent snow fall. We then took a chance to scout out some early ice conditions. I knew that some areas are more likely to have ice than others. I was looking for cooler temps and shaded aspects with higher elevation for forming ice. Also considering the hike in and a recon mission, I though that Lincoln Falls would be a great venue to check. Little did we know what we were in store for.

The drive in to the parking area was a great time to confirm there would be good ice. Once we saw the main gully in a mild blue hue I knew that there was potential for some climbing.

The 1st pitch was a little more wet on the right side the h2o was rushing down the ice fall. Over all there was pretty deep ice. The ice fall took screws and swings.

The second pitch was a bit more interesting. With chandeliers and steeper terrain, I was paying closer attention as to where my placements went . During early season one must try to tread lightly on this forming ice. Ice that is not ready to lead one must really try to avoid it for future climbing.

We found great mixed top roping with out bashing the ice pack apart that was still forming.

Working together we were able to come up with a plan. As mountain guides we are trained to be consciences of the resources and lead by example.

When the early season has you pumped to climb remember to think about preservation and the future of the season for you and especially others.

Joey Thompson
CMS Guide
AMGA Certified Rock Guide
AIARE Level 1 Instructor
jthompson@totalclimbing.com